Travel: Pristine Chikkamagalur

We are so used to travelling at least once in a month but due to office work, we had long gap after our Coorg trip in May, 2007. Our feet were itching for a long drive and an vacation during monsoon when nature is at its best with greenery all around.

We decided to make Chikmagalur our next travel destination. This destination was ideal in all sense as we had relatives staying in a small town called Sakrepatna very near to Chikmagalur.

Chickmagalur, the name literally means 'Younger Daughter's Town'. It is said to have been given as a dowry to the younger daughter of Rukmangada, the legendary chief of Sakrepatna. This way we could have have long drive, meet our relatives as well see some beautiful locations on the way. Nestled in the Baba Budan hills,

Chikmagalur is a calm, serene town full of scenic surprises, hills, valleys, streams and snow-white coffee blossoms. Situated 251 kms from Bangalore, Chikmagalur is a trekker's delight, with its rugged mountain trails. We did not choose to trek as my parents accompanied us(Anu and me). Day 1, 11.08.07 We started our journey on Saturday in Santro at 6.30 AM so that we avoid traffic on NH4. The route is NH4, Bangalore-Pune highway and at Nelmangala junction take left and go on Bangalore-Mangalore state highway. Around 8 AM, we stopped for breakfast near a temple. After breakfast we restarted our journey. We had decided to see places like Hemavathi dam, Belur and Yagachi dam which are on the way. At Channarayapatna, we stopped at our relatives place below and had coffee there. I found an interesting toy which is an hot favorite among village children. I remembered that I too played with a similar toy during childhood. Sigh...childhood memories are so nice. After 15 minutes we resumed our journey and approached Hassan. We took an left turn from highway and headed to see Hemavathi dam. The drive to Hemavathi dam was scenic and we could see lot of water bodies like the one below. The dam is around 18 Kms from the Mangalore highway near Hassan. Due to heavy rains during the monsoon, the reservoir was full and they had opened all flood gates. The water was flowing in full force and we saw huge crowd who enjoyed soaking in the water spray. It was a treat to watch the water raising to such high level with tremendous force. We stayed for 30 minutes and resumed our journey. Our next stop was Belur. We came back to Mangalore highway and passed Hassan. Few kms after Hassan, we took a right turn to join Chikmagalur highway. The drive was excellent as the weather was cool and it was cloudy. There was greenery everywhere as it was monsoon time. The road too was good as you can see below. We could see lots of farms where potatoes are grown and the flowers were in their full bloom. Soon we approached Belur which is enroute to Chikmagalur.

Belur in Hassan district (222 kms from Bangalore and 38 kms from Hassan) is famous for its magnificent Hoysala Temple Complex. The Chennakeshava temple here was completed in 1116 by Hoysala Vishnuvardhana to commemorate his victory over the Chola. It took 103 years to complete. The facade of the temple is filled with intricate sculptures and freizes-with no portion left blank. Elephants, episodes from the epics, sensous dancers nothing was left uncarved.

For more details you can visit following site www.karnataka.com/tourism/belur When we reached Belur it was almost 4PM but the temple was still open. Once we entered the temple we were wonder struck at the beauty we saw. The carvings so perfect. Such intricate carvings are so rare to see especially those of shila balikas. Darpana Sundari in the picture below We paid Rs.150 for government approved guide and he showed us around. The guide gave us information on the outstanding workmanship of people who built this temple. He explained that carving of one shila balike would have taken years together as even a minutest detail was to be expressed well in the carvings. They would never compromise on perfection.
Below is the stone pillar which is standing without any support. It is leaning on one side and its possible to insert a sheet of paper at the base to prove it. Some more photos of Belur temple below After having seen such an magnificent temple so rich in its carvings we headed to Yagachi dam on the way. Some photos of Yagachi dam and an fisherman who was busy there. Yagachi dam was the last sight seeing location for the day. Now we headed to Chikmagalur and from there to Sakrepatna around 20 kms away. We could see many trees submerged in Yagachi reservoir Journey was so pleasant with greenery and mountain views. There was a little drizzle towards the end of our journey which was pleasant. We reached our relative's house around 7.30 PM and that ended our day 1.

Day 2, 12.08.07

Today we wanted to visit Kalhathgiri falls, Kemmanagundi hill and Hebbe falls station. But my uncle was not in favor of it as landslides were reported due to heavy rainfall wherein the narrow roads get blocked. I was adamant to go. Finally he approved it after making some phone calls to his friends and got confirmed that everything is ok. However, we had to drop plans of going to Hebbe falls as it needs trekking for 2 Kms and my mother would find it difficult.

So, we set out after breakfast from Sakrepatna. The route we took was Sakrepatna-Kadur-Birur and then a left to reach Kalhathgiri falls also called Kalhatti falls. The drive to this place was very scenic and we enjoyed the greenery around. We also saw a colorful village fair on the way.

Located 10 kms before Kemmanagundi, at Kalhatti Falls, also known as Kalahasti falls, the water cascades down from a height of 122 metres. All around are fascinating scenic delights. An bird's eye view of this beautiful place. Notice the falls at the top. There is also a local temple here constructed in a gap between rocks. You will have to wade through the waters from the falls over the rock which looks like an elephant to reach the temple as you can see below. We wanted to play in the stream above. We trekked up for about 100 meters along a slippery path besides a coffee estate and found a nice and secluded place. The weather was cloudy and cool. Once we got into the waters we were all chilled due to cold water. After few minutes we got used to it and enjoyed playing there. The water is said to have ailing powers as it is very pure and passes through medicinal plants, leaves and herbs in its path. Later, it started to rain and luckily it stopped after a while. We played for about an hour and returned. On the way back, the path was more slippery due the rains. It took lot of skill to avoid slipping.

Now, our next stop is Kemmanagundi. 260 Kms from Bangalore is Kemmanagundi, a scenic hill station on the Baba Budan range of hills. Kemmanagundi is also known as K.R. Hills after Wodeyar King, Krishnaraja Wodeyar who had made it his favourite summer camp. Kemmanagundi, at a height of 1,434 meters, is surrounded by thick forests and a salubrious climate the year. It has beautifully laid out and well maintained ornamental gardens and panoramic view of the mountains. Kemmanagundi is 10 Kms from Kalhatti falls. The road is not so bad. We came across many water streams like one below on our way. This is the last photo for the day, something went wrong with my camera, Casio EX-Z500. When I take still pictures in daylight, the picture comes out white only. I think camera's white balance has gone for a toss! Nevertheless, we enjoyed the drive to Kemmanagundi as the view below with greater height. We could see the mist covering the mountains gradually. We reached Kemmanagundi and saw there were very few people and due the mist the visibility was hardly 10 feet and it was very cold on the top. It was full of mist and we could not catch the beautiful views offered there. For people who enjoy the mist, this is the right place.

We had our packed lunch there and went for a short walk. Its better to carry food as there are very few options there. There is a guest house maintained by Horticulture department, other than that there are no shops/restaurants on the hill. We returned home after this nice experience.

Day 3, 13.08.2007

Today our plans were to go Mulyanagiri hills, the highest peak in Karnataka and then to Baba Budangiri. We started from our home rather later, around 12.30 PM in two cars Hyundai Accent driven by my uncle and our Santro.

The Baba Budan Range has taken its name from the 1895 Meters high Baba Budan Giri situated just 28 kms north of Chikmagalur town. Baba Budan Range or Chandra Drona Parvatha as it was known in the ancient times is to the north of Chikmaglur town. It has one of the highest mountain peaks between the Himalayas and the Nilgiris. The highest point of the range is Mullaiyanagari, which is 1926 Meters above sea level and is 12 KMs from Chikmagalur. A beacon lighted here during Deepavali can be seen at Chikmagalur We first reached Chikmagalur from Sakrepatna.
In Chikmagalur we took below snap showing the Baba Budan range. We are soon going to be top of it. We passed through coffee plantations on the way to Mulyanagiri. However, we could not take the Mulyanagiri road as a tractor driver told us that there are landslides and the road is blocked.
Disappointed, we dropped the plans and drove towards Baba Budangiri. On the way, we saw a JCB removing the boulders from a land slide and we also saw landslides on the way but luckily the road was not blocked completely. Some photos taken on the way. The following pictures do not have good clarity as they were shot from a cellphone camera. Enroute we came across a small stream of water and a water fall. We stopped for a while and played in the water for some time. We also collected some drinking water from the stream. After passing few villages we saw no habitation at all. It was pure nature. Range of green hills all around. The sight was very enchanting without any kind of human activity. It was just us and the nature. Finally, we reached Baba Budangiri. The sight at the top was awe inspiring. I had never seen anything like this before. It was pure pure nature and all with fresh coat of greenery. I shall cherish this sight for a very long time. Many more photos now.

We parked our cars at the entrance to Datta Peeta shrine. There is a police post here as it is an controversial place. Handiwork of politicians again. In one way it is good because there is less habitation on the mountains and so nature is preserved. The policeman took note of our car numbers. I thought they dont want to take chances.

We went to down the steps and entered the cave. The cave had samadhis of the disciples of the saint and the place where Saint Dattatreya mediated. There was water oozing around in the cave as though they had switched on a water pump. But here, its a natural phenomenon.
Later, we headed to see Manyakyadhara waterfalls around 2.5 kms from the shrine. The views on the way were superb and we passed by a natural lake. Overflowing water from this lake actually forms Manyakayadhara waterfalls.

To see the falls, we have to climb down some 100 steps. The falls is on the edge of the cliff. They have constructed support all around so that you can safely bathe in the chilling waters. Imagine what it feels like having shower at the top while catching beautiful views of the valley! I considered myself lucky for having witnessed such sights.

Later we had packed lunch by the lakeside. The landscape was beautiful that it was a watching an artist's work. It was so perfect. There are no pictures of it due to insufficient memory in the mobile. Nevertheless, pictures will not do justice to this wonderful place. It was 4 pm already and within no time, mist covered the entire mountains. Our visibility was hardly 5-8 feet.

I could not see my car parked just 10 feet away from him. It started to rain as well. We started our journey back home in mist covered mountains. The drive was thrilling for next 30 minutes due to rain, mist and narrow roads. We reached Chikmagalur, had dosa and coffee there. From here, we could see the mountain range completely in the clouds.

We reached Sakrepatna around 7 PM. This ends our day 3 activities. This will remain very close to our heart.

Day 4, 14.08.2007

We got up early at 6.30 AM to view ruins in Sakrepatna also called Sakkaraya Patna in earlier days. This place was well fortified but now only the ruins remain. Our intention was to see a canon atop a small hill. This canon was so huge and was atleast 15 feet in length. We were wondering how could they get this heavy iron piece atop the hill. From the hill we could have a 360 degrees view of Sakrepatna. Some pics of the hill, canon and the ruins around the small town. Observe the entrance to the escape tunnel. As per villagers there, some adventurous souls went inside to explore it and never returned. The strong wall which protected against the enemies now act as a wall to a house.
Later we proceeded to Ayyanakere around 5 Kms from Sakrepatna. Its a little reservoir which caters to irrigation lands in and around Sakrepatna. People depend on Ayyanakere for their livlihood. The way passed through paddy fields and areca nut plantations, the main source of income for the people here.



Later, we reached Ayyanakere and liked the quite spot. There were hardly anyone there. we could see some fishermen. It made a nice place to take some pictures.




Closeby, there is deserted temple. From there you can have a panoramic view. Near the temple there were some disfigured statues which were really a work of art. They resembled the work in Belur temples. Picture of one of the statues and the view from top.


We returned to Sakrepatna, finished our breakfast and got ready to leave to Bangalore.
We were back in Bangalore, the concrete jungle. Back to work now until our next vacation in Kodaikanal.

General Information for travellers

1. Accessibility to Chikmagalur
Chikmagalur is 251 Kms From Bangalore
From Bangalore by Train
Route : Bangalore- Tumkur - Arasikere - Kadur.

Kadur is the nearest railway station to Chikmagalur.
By Express Train 3 hours running time to Kadur.
From Kadur 45 minutes journey by bus/taxi to Chikmagalur.

If the train is of non-stop at Kadur, then Birur is the next nearest railway station.
From Birur 50 minutes journey by bus/taxi to Chikmagalur.

From Bangalore by Road (Both Private and KSRTC Buses are available)

Buses are available via Bangalore - Hassan - Belur- Chikmagalur (5 hours 30 minutes/ 5 hours)
Buses are available via Bangalore - Arasikere - Kadur - Chikmagalur (5 hours 30 minutes / 5 hours)

2. Places to see around Chikmagalur
- Mulyanagiri - 12 kms
- The Baba Budan Range - 28 kms
- Bhandra Wildlife Sanctuary - 30 kms
- Shivagiri Trails - 50 kms
- Kemmanagundi - 54 kms
- Hebbe Falls - 10 Kms from Kemmanagundi
- Kallathigiri Falls - 10 kms from Kemmanagundi
- Kudremukh (Horse Face) - 95 kms

3. Where to stay
Luxury
- Taj Garden Retreat
http://www.tajhotels.com/Leisure/Taj%20Garden%20Retreat,CHIKMAGALUR/default.htm

Home stays
-WoodWay home stay
http://www.woodwayhomestay.com/

-Nature Nirvana Plantation home stay
http://www.naturenirvana.com/

-Nature Craft Homestay

- Eagle Eye Holiday Homes

Budget hotels
- Quality Inn : Indira Gandhi Road, Chikmagalur
- Padanshree Lodge : Near Taluk Office, Chikmagalur
- Woodlands : Indira Gandhi Road, Chikmagalur
- Rajmahal : Indira Gandhi Road, Chikmagalur
- Vasantha Vihar Lodge : Rathanagiri Road, Chikmagalur